Use a hairdryer to get the spiral bone-dry, even if it was already dry.It's much better to just control the temperature, which means time is your primary variable for varying development. While you can in principle develop at other temperatures, this requires time-compensation which is a little film-dependent so it's very hard to get consistent results.
HOWNTO USE PHOTOFLOW FILM DEVELOPMENT FULL
Cooling is easily done in the fridge, and heating is best done by placing the jug full of developer in a bath of hot water, making sure not to get any extra water in the developer. Use your thermometer to measure the developer temperature while you heat or cool the developer until it reaches temperature. That batch of fixer is good for approximately 10 rolls of film.ĭeveloping is always done at 20C and you need to be accurate to about half a degree. You probably want to make up 500mL by mixing 100mL of fixer with 400mL of clean water. Any more than a few drops and you will cause foam, which will be worse. Place one drop of Photoflo into your diluted developer this will help prevent bubbles forming. Measure out and dilute the stock using your measuring jug just before you plan to use it because the diluted developer will generally not keep overnight. Do not mix up a partial batch by dividing the powder. If you decide to use a powder developer like D76, mix up the stock solution according to the directions one day before you plan to use it. Squirt the developer into a carefully-measured quantity of water in your measuring jug then use the same water to rinse the developer dregs out of the syringe. The easiest way to measure out liquid concentrates is with a medical syringe (no needle) obtained from a pharmacy should be well under $1 each. You need to perform the following steps in order: Ilford also sells Hypam, which is also a Rapid Fixer and a perfectly good choice. The Kodak and Ilford versions are readily available as liquid concentrates. You can buy concentrated stop bath, or dilute some white vinegar about 1+4 (20%), or just use water.īuy a Rapid Fixer (Ammonium Thiosulphate) instead of an old-style "Hypo" (Sodium Thiosulphate) fixer. Stop bath is a dilute acid that kills any developer left on the film after you've poured the developer out of the tank.
you respect the minimum quantity (e.g.Dilute it according to the instructions that it came with, being careful that: Photoflo 200 (not really optional)įor your first attempts, a liquid concentrate with excellent shelf-life is the easiest option, e.g. hypo clearing agent / wash aid (optional).somewhere dust-free to hang the film while it dries.PETE) or glass bottles for storing chemicals 500mL Pyrex jug graduates are nice if you can find them) inversion development tank and spirals, e.g.dark-bag for loading film into development tanks.You do not need access to a darkroom all of this can be performed using a kitchen or laundry sink. This page is aimed at people processing film for the first time.
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